The never-ending whirlwind of daily life at a restaurant like Pulpería Santa Elvira is about to begin. “What you see in the series *El Oso* happens in real life,” warns chef Javier Avilés Lira, who runs this Santiago, Chile, restaurant that transforms food into landscapes. A space that describes itself as “an intimate restaurant in constant transformation.”
A More Contemporary Chilean Cuisine
“We’re living in a large house that’s over 100 years old. So Florencia, my wife, who’s an interior designer, realized she had to transform it into a grandmother’s house—an old-fashioned home—while creating a more contemporary Chilean kitchen.”
And that’s exactly right. Pulpería Santa Elvira evokes home-cooked food in a warm yet elegant setting. Yes, the dishes look sophisticated, but they have that special “something” that keeps them down-to-earth for diners. “I wouldn’t want a restaurant that was just concrete—very cold. I realized I could create contemporary cuisine in a setting that feels more welcoming,” explains the chef. “And we believe this welcoming atmosphere is exactly what we were looking for.”
Experiences, signature dishes, and art
At Pulpería Santa Elvira, no single dish stands out above the rest. “We don’t have signature dishes because we believe every dish is just as important as the next. They all require the same amount of effort, and we strive for the same quality in every dish. In fact, we change the menu almost every season,” he explains when I ask him what he can recommend from the menu.
That approach is also recognized by both foreign visitors and Chilean customers. “I know that foreign visitors are looking more for the experience when they come. But local diners may already be seeing it as a restaurant they’ll return to at least three or four times a year.”
That quest to be a standout venue not only in terms of cuisine but also in terms of concept is reflected in the collaborations Pulpería Santa Elvira has developed with the art world. Recently, the restaurant joined forces with Ch.ACO (Chile Arte Contemporáneo), the platform that promotes the international reach of Chilean contemporary art, to create an experience that brought together gastronomy, the local region, and artistic creation.
“I studied architecture, which is why I’m so interested in the artistic side of things. My dishes aren’t just a plate of food; they also speak to the landscape. We aim to shake up gastronomy, to make it flow more freely, so it isn’t the typical, rigid restaurant where the same thing always happens.”
“No, we don’t want to be a classic fine-dining restaurant, like everyone else,” he explains. “What we did with Ch.ACO was really nice because we created something connected to northern Chile, where I’m from. They brought in representatives from that region, and it was great; it was a win-win for both of us.”
The Best Chef Awards
The accolades haven’t gone unnoticed either. Pulpería Santa Elvira has been featured on the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list, in *The New York Times*, and in 2025, Javier received an award from The Best Chef Awards—an announcement that, he admits, took him completely by surprise: “It was very exciting. They always send you an email beforehand, and I hadn’t received anything; I found out when they were announcing it, with my name, and then they sent it to me from Milan. It’s recognition from your peers, so it’s nice.”
Beyond the prestige, Avilés believes that these awards have a direct impact on the restaurant. “Awards help the business run more smoothly, so they’re always welcome. No matter where they come from, an award is always well received.”
At Pulpería Santa Elvira, the experience doesn’t end on the plate. The visual identity is also part of a project that is about to celebrate its 8th anniversary since its founding. “We work with two photographers. One is Carolina Vargas, who does an excellent job. We also work with a photographer friend who is based in Antarctica, taking photos and exploring. He really understands the photographic style we’re going for. We’re very interested in showcasing the work we do with our team, the region, the landscape, and all that.”
That same philosophy is reflected in every dish. “What’s more, each dish involves a lot of technical skill: fermentation and a great deal of work.”
Although the restaurant has achieved international recognition, the chef says that the biggest challenge remains evolving. “We want to continue building on Chile’s culinary heritage and traditions, and to highlight Indigenous peoples in one way or another—the foods they used and the products native to their communities.”
In Pursuit of a Zero Carbon Footprint
Another of the restaurant’s short-term goals is sustainability. “Our goal is to become a restaurant that generates very little waste. We’re working step by step toward eventually achieving a zero carbon footprint. We know it’s very difficult in a capital city, but we want to gradually earn those certifications.”
Avilés insists that the project couldn’t exist without the team behind it. “I’m the public face, as always, but there’s a whole team behind the scenes. There’s Flor, Vania, and Valeria. Valeria is the café manager; Flor and Vania work in administration. In addition, we have between 15 and 16 people working with us, and many of them have been here for a long time, so they already have a very clear understanding of the concept.”
Exchanging ideas with other chefs is also part of the restaurant’s philosophy. “We love sharing with other chefs and bringing in restaurants from other countries. I travel a lot to showcase our work, and we’re a unique restaurant. I’ve traveled and seen many places, and I can tell you that we’re a cozy restaurant—different from the rest.”
Chile Through Its Cuisine
Avilés looks back with a certain pride. “When we opened the restaurant, we came to Chile with nothing, and we’ve built a small empire all on our own. Everything we bought—glasses, chairs, tables, equipment—gradually made its way out of the restaurant.” It’s a philosophy he also sums up in a phrase he often shares on Pulpería Santa Elvira’s social media : “Dreams are meant to be lived while awake, and perseverance yields unexpected rewards.”
And finally, it all comes together on the table. One glance at the menu is enough to see that Pulpería Santa Elvira seeks to tell the story of Chile through its dishes. From appetizers like “Conchas/Pieles de pescado” (fish shells/skins), which champion the use of every part of the seafood, or a “Chupe de jaiba” (crab chowder) reinterpreted with a contemporary twist, to main courses like “Estofado de congrio” (conger eel stew), “Berenjenas al rescoldo” (smoldered eggplant), or “Mollejas, lapas y garbanzos” (sweetbreads, limpets, and chickpeas), each dish seems to engage in a dialogue with the country’s culinary heritage. The same concept extends to the “Norte” tasting menu, a nine-course journey inspired by the Atacama Desert and the traditions of Indigenous peoples, featuring ingredients such as cochayuyo, luche, guanaco, chañar, rica rica, and Calameño melon. The desserts also stay true to this narrative, and offerings such as candied apple, dulce de leche flan, murta tart, and strawberry-rhubarb continue the culinary journey through the landscape.
Pulpería Santa Elvira is located at 920 Lincoyán, in the Ñuñoa district of Santiago, Chile, where it continues to build on a concept that brings together cuisine, local culture, and contemporary art.
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